Visiting the Capathian-Rus’

I know my family and friends are wondering how my trip was and want to know every detail. So here it is. Here’s my journey of visiting the homeland!

 

It started when I lost my job… which yes, sucked, but I was about to quit. I was let go in February and had to work until late April. I knew I was leaving and one day, as I sat in a doctor’s office, I got an email from the Carpatho-Rusyn Society (which I never ended up renewing my membership but still got emails??) which said “Deadline has been extended!” and I was was like “what deadline?” I, of course, open it up and see that there’s a summer program in Slovakia at this university where I could learn more about my Rusyn heritage and culture.

I sent it to my mother and asked, “should I do it?”

Her response: “What else are you doing? Do it.”

So, I did! I applied one day at work and a few weeks later, I got in! I wasn’t sure what to expect and some people thought I was nuts for wanting to go to Slovakia (they just didn’t understand!) and before I knew it, I wasn’t working anymore and I was planning a trip across the pond! I traveled across Eastern/Central Europe (with a quick pitstop in London!) before making it eastward to Prešov (Preh-shahv), the third largest city in Slovakia.

The University of Prešov hosts the Studium Carpatho-Ruthenorum every year (except during COVID) and this was the 14th year. We stayed in dorms, had roommates, and took classes. It was nice to be back in a school setting. We started off with Rusyn language classes and for me, those were the most difficult. I have a Latin-based language background so to switch to another new alphabet (that wasn’t even Greek!) was a bit challenging. I struggled, but I did learn a thing or two! Every weekday for two hours, we learned the language of our ancestors. We had history classes and culture classes, where we were able to learn the folk dances and singing. Probably the best part because who doesn’t love to dance?!

Singing the language with Rachel

Of course, fun was had! Every weekend we had an excursion outside of Prešov to somewhere in the Carpathian Mountains. We did a mock wedding, which ended up on the Slovak news (CRAZY!) and we got to be little village girls for a bit washing our hands in the river and baking bread. Everyone was so welcoming when we visited and even though I could barely speak the language (kept wanting to speak Spanish… wrong language obviously!), we were still able to communicate through a shared culture. Plus many shots of borovička. That also helps.

I want to share some of my favorites memories rather than tell you what happened everyday. It was hard to narrow it down to just one so I will tell you a few.

At our mock wedding, I was honored to play the part of maid of honor. Thankfully not the bride because even if it was fake, why would I want o be married now?! They pulled the bridal party to a VIP suite where the babas literally pulled us and threw garments on me. Somehow I ended up the best dressed? I had multiple layers both on my body and in my hair! We had the mock wedding and then afterwards, they fed us. This was the best part. It felt like an actual reception after a wedding. I ended up sitting next to this older gentleman and we barely talked but he offered me a shot and I, of course, said, yes! Well, one turned into two, and two turned into four, and next thing I know, I’m 7 shots deep! And that’s just a guesstimate because I, honestly, lost count. We started singing together and we just laughed at each other. Trying to communicate was through drinking and singing. The whole thing felt so real and I felt so connected to my ancestors, wondering if this what it was like when Wash and Maria Turcmanovich were doing on their wedding day.

Maid of Honor wedding attire

After, they got us undressed, and I tried to walk down the stairs, my friends tell me that they’re heading to a baba’s house to buy some kroj, a piece of the traditional garment. I immediately was like, I’m coming. So, the bus takes us there, and we have a kid from the village (one of the only one who speaks English) translating and we look through the kroj she made. We were given five minutes to do this by the director… well, we’re now on 15! We buy our kroj, and then the baba offers us shots of vodka! What can you do except say, “yes, thank you?” You can’t say no! Next I thing I know, we’re handed shot glasses and the vodka is pouring and we’re saying “Na zdorovie” and the vodka is burning my mouth. I taste a stale cracker that she gave us as a chaser, and I look up and she’s drinking right from the bottle. Then all of sudden, we hear a shout coming from the director saying we absolutely need to leave. We rush to get our shoes back on and RUN to the bus. A memory that I will remember forever. I can just taste the burn of the vodka and that stale cracker. And in case you’re wondering, there is video of us running!

Na zdorovie!

The next one was so wholesome.

We visited the last school in Slovakia that teaches Rusyn as a language out in eastern, eastern Slovakia. The kids at this school welcomed us with dances, presentations, and singing! We walked through the hallways and they had some of their artwork hanging. It was all so beautiful but one called out to me in particular. I don’t know why but I was like I want this hanging in my home. I asked the director to ask the principal if I can buy it. The principal was stunned. Why would this American girl want to buy this kid’s painting?! I don’t know but it was just so pretty. It spoke to me in a way that the other didn’t. Maybe it’s the details of it all or the way the church is inside the crest. Either way, I just knew that I had to have this hanging in my home somehow. He said that he’ll see what he could do. Meanwhile, they fed us and, of course, gave us shots of vodka… what else! Then we were told to go outside and spend some time with the kids. They had fried cabbage pirohi for us… MY FAVORITE! I will forever love cabbage. Well, I ate them up! My friend thought they were empanadas… Oh, Robert!

I’m chowing down on my many pirohi and then the principal comes out with a copy he made of the painting. I was absolutely stunned. I just thought it wouldn’t happen. I was so overwhelmed! I was so happy! I couldn’t stop smiling and thanked him profusely. I made sure to keep it safe the rest of the trip and I, now, have it hanging in my apartment. On the back he wrote who created it. Thank you Terezia Pančáková!! Your beautiful artwork hangs on my wall. I will hang it up in my future homes when I move.

As I mentioned above, another one of my favorite things of the trip was the dancing. We danced SO MUCH! As many of you know, I love to dance even though I’m not a dancer at all. My friends taught me the bachata and whenever we’re together, we go salsa dancing! (Shoutout Sofia!) Of course, this is not salsa dancing. There are no hip movements. It was the dancing that I grew up watching. My mom would always pull my little brother (when he was little) up and start doing the polka. I would watch the Pennsylvania Polka on our PBS station because Dede would always watch it. He loved to polka. We would always hear about how our Uncle Victor was the best dancer. Now, I never really learned it, but this was the time to shine! I loved every second. At the mock wedding, one of the guys grabbed me and spun me around so much that I was in a cylindrical force and my feet were off the ground. I did think “this is how I die,” but you know, that’s a great way to go!

We danced for most of the trip because we all loved it so much. We did get professional lessons where we learned the steps. It was a sunny afternoon and we were outside the university dancing with someone playing the accordion in the background. And we danced, and danced, and danced. Of course, the instructors had to leave… and we kept dancing! We were just having fun! The accordionist left and so someone pulled up songs on YouTube. It didn’t matter that the lesson was over, we just wanted to dance! At some point, we were just freestyling and, of course, I started to do the bachata. Well, somehow I started teaching people how to do the bachata. A bunch of Rusyns and we’re doing Latin dancing. I literally pulled over my friend and said, “I’m teaching you the bachata.” He just goes, “okay.” Well, it was rough but it was still fun! I still laugh thinking about it.

The girls dancing!

Overall, this experience was truly once in a lifetime.

I think the best part was just being around fellow Rusyns. I didn’t have to explain why I celebrate Christmas on January 7th or why I eat these certain foods. It was also nice to see so many similarities between us like our physical traits and our traditions. Many “round faces” amongst us. The best part was to see how our traditions are still alive to this day despite all the hardships our ancestors went through. That meant so much to me. That through it all, traditions will remain a constant.

I found a new family that I didn’t know that I have. These people mean so much to me.

To everyone, I met on this trip whether you part of the program or a baba who welcomed me into her village, thank you. You changed how I view the world and you opened my eyes. This trip meant a lot to a girl like me who was trying to rediscover herself. I didn’t have many expectations when I signed up for the program, but everything I did expect was exceeded tenfold. I want to tell the girl who just found out that she lost her job that if she just waits a few months, she’ll be so happy and will find joy again. Thank God I lost my job!